The hidden language of Champagne
I went to see Pierre-Eric Jolly in 2017 for reasons that had nothing to do with Champagne. I was there for a barrel, hunting for a used cask I could bring home and fill with gin for a limited-edition release under the Forager’s label, and someone had pointed me south, down into the Aube, to a family estate in Landreville that had been working the same land since 1737. What I actually walked away with was a barrel and, tucked in somewhere behind it, a proper education in the two tiny letters printed on every Champagne bottle I’d ever opened without once looking at them closely. Pierre-Eric took over the domaine from his father in 2000, and everything that comes